Wednesday, June 10, 2015

Begumpur Mosque - A mute Spectator to the Glories of the Past


There is a debate about who built this mosque. One version says that this is the main congregation mosque for the city of Jahanpanah way back when Mohammad Bin Tughlaq was in power. According to Badr i Chach - who lived at the court of Mohd Bin Tughlaq, and was the most outstanding poet of those times, mentions Al Jayush as the chief architect of this exquisite structure. 

The second version says that this was built during the time of Firoz Shah Tughlaq, who was a renowned builder himself. It is believed to have been built by Khan e Jahan Telengani, who was his prime minister and a very powerful influence on him. He and his son Jauna Khan who succeeded him have been credited with patronizing a series of mosques around Delhi, one of which was the Begumpur mosque. 

Moreover, there has not been any mention of such a grandeur in the records of Ibn Batuta - which also leads us to the possibility of its being built during the time of Firoz Shah Tughlaq.. 







The mosque has a huge courtyard with prayer corridors on three sides. The style of the arch at the main eastern entrance has central Asian influence. Apart from serving as a Friday mosque, it was believed to be serving as a madrasa in the pinnacle of its glory. 

Built in the unadorned spartan style of rubble masonry, and described by Sir Syed as 'strong and ugly',  one can still discover style and magnificence in its robustness. 

Walking through the arcades to its northern wall - we  reach a niche - which is believed to be used as the prayer hall for women. A rickety narrow staircase leads one to the roof which promises a magnificent view of the Begampur village and the neighboring area. 








The mosque contains 64 domes, with the central one with a height of 9 feet





Begumpur mosque lay occupied by the villagers for centuries till the ASI decided to restore it and evacuated the villagers in the year 1921. 

Today standing in a state of utter neglect, it sometimes serves as a cricket pitch for local urchins, sometimes a favorite joint for gamblers and drug addicts. Goats and dogs have free access in its ruins. 



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